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Flea Remedies
10 May 18 - By TheRazzLine - Compilation

Flea Remedies

Here’s a compilation of solutions for preventing and getting rid of fleas. Good luck!

Flea Remedies

I was warned that garlic is toxic to dogs and cats. I researched this and garlic, plus onions, are definitely on the list of items poisonous to dogs. So, that would be one remedy to omit!


I personally have tried this product and recommend it. Look on the web for CedarCide. Read the testimonials. The product is good for babies, pets, people and it works.  It is not systemic for the animal either.


Look up ShooTags for dogs. I used them on my cats last Summer and had no fleas or ticks. I just got a set for my dog, a South African Mastiff. So far, no fleas, ticks, mosquitoes. Same with the cats (indoor-outdoor). Just got them for the horses; haven’t put on yet. Non-toxic. Check ‘em out!


I give my little dog Trifexis. The flea remedy part of that is Comfortis. Yes, it’s a chemical. No, you will not get it all over your hands and your house because it does not soak into the dog hairs like the drops. (the drops made ME completely sick)

Does it work? 100%. I kid you not. My dog has ZERO fleas. I would be able to see them on his white stomach if he did, and he has ZERO.

This is the only way I could live with a dog, I hate fleas way too much, and the poor dog’s misery with the itching too.

If you go online you will find “horror” stories as well as success stories. I asked my vet, she said sometimes vomiting the day of the pill, usually when dog has not eaten enough first.

I knew I would use this when I picked up my puppy, and I expected he knew that was the deal for living with me. We have both been very happy. He is perfectly healthy.


Eucalyptus Soap and lemon water. You bathe the dog with it. The fleas hate Eucalyptus and will stay off your dog.


I haven't tried it but I hear washing the dog with Dawn dish soap does the trick.

For your yard - if you use beneficial nematodes, you'll never have to worry about fleas in your yard!!  Microscopic worms that feed on the eggs/fleas/ticks/tick eggs/grubs and gets rid of 'em for you. I recommend ordering from a company called Arbico rather than a local nursery as I have found their products to be more reliable, productive and longer lasting.


I have a natural pest control company spray the house every 3 months for fleas and insects. I think he uses Boric acid or some non-toxic stuff on the carpets etc. I have 3 cats, and I comb them about once a week and kill any fleas I find with soapy water. Often they don’t have fleas, even though they all are inside / outside cats. I also feed them very high quality food, some of it raw, and I think that helps, too.

My vet told me to give them Lewis Labs Brewer’s Yeast for fleas. I just got a jar from Vitacost, about $10, which I will try.


Totally natural and healthy for pets and humans. I recommend something called Diatomaceous Earth (food grade). We have used it in our household for many years now and on our pets. It is a fascinating'll see what I mean once you see the info on it. On this page there is a video that explains what Diatomaceous Earth is. 

There are several other websites that sell it, but make sure that it is Food Grade.


Only Natural Pet All-in-One Flea Remedy

I used this on my cat for years in Florida where there are tons of fleas and it works great. You can check out the ingredient in Wiki. It is just ground up natural shells and it causes the fleas to dehydrate and die. It is so easy that our house-sitter successfully used it on our cat while we were out of town. She said our cat enjoyed it when she rubbed it in gently and the cat thought he was getting a nice massage.

We used to use stuff on our previous cat that was a chemical that you put on the back of the neck - and the cat had a muscular fit right after we put it on that looked like an epileptic fit.  I found out later that all those chemicals are nerve toxins and very deadly. And that was the last time we used any chemicals on our pets!

If you have a big dog, you may need to use quite a bit in the beginning, but after you kill all the fleas, just a bit is needed after that. It really is a very low yearly cost compared to other methods. You can also use this in the corners of your house if you need to.  By the way, you can buy the same ingredient that is in this flea remedy from nurseries or lawn shops - in large buckets and sprinkle it around your yard.  Should cost around $50 for a small yard. I did that the first year to kill all the fleas.

I think this product is awesome!


I have used Diatomaceous earth, but not on a dog, only a cat.  Another (non-toxic)
thing is the plantain plant (not the fruiting banana part of the plant, but the fresh leaves, stems, and seeds). If you can find it growing in your yard, you have a miracle on your hands. I make tea from the leaves and also the leaves can be used as a poultice for any injury. But the seeds are an internal insecticide. Put some of them in his food.

Needless to say, I have not tried the insecticide on an animal, but it does work on myself. If all else fails, try Advantage. It won't really hurt your dog if he is healthy otherwise and eating excellent food. But the plantain seeds could be tried also.


From a Veterinarian:


In order for you to completely handle a flea problem, it is necessary for you to understand some basics regarding how fleas survive, how they reproduce and why it is so difficult to get rid of them. 

Flea biology

Here is how a flea ensures its survival.  Basically, fleas entire purpose in life is to eat, reproduce and by the same token pester your pets and you!  They are the cause of untold discomfort for your pet and can carry diseases. 

Let me take you through the lifetime of a flea.  A newly hatched flea is on the ground at the park.  Your pet happens to walk by.  The flea takes advantage of this and jumps on your pet.  There and there only is it able to eat and breed.  A flea CANNOT lay eggs without having first ingested a blood meal on a host.  Humans are not the primary host for the dog and cat fleas and therefore CANNOT reproduce on us and therefore, IF a flea happens to jump on us, it is by mistake and it will not stay on us.

So your pet comes back from the park and now has a straddler flea on.  What happens?  The flea has NO reason to jump off the pet.  It got lucky.  It found a host.  It would NEVER jump off the host as being on a host is its method of survival. 

It immediately starts biting your pet in order to ingest a blood meal.  If it is a female, it will then start laying eggs. Remember: a flea cannot lay eggs unless it has eaten first. 

One flea can lay 25 to 50 eggs per day!!!  Where are those eggs laid?  Where your pet spends the most time resting.  This is where your pet will scratch and shake off the eggs and the flea poop.  The flea poop will also serve to feed the baby fleas once they are laid in the environment.  The best environment for fleas to develop is in your house under controlled temperatures and humidity conditions.  They do not do as well outside as it is too cold, too hot, too wet, too dry…  Your home has the perfect conditions for fleas to reach adulthood. 

So the eggs get laid in your house.  They will predominantly be found where your pet spends the most time resting:  the bedding, the carpet, a favorite corner, the couch, even in your bed.  These eggs will spend some time developing and will soon hatch into “flea maggots” or larvae.  These larvae will feed on the flea poop that is also being shaken in the environment when your pet scratches.  Flea poop is flea baby food.  Yuck, huh?  And if your pet sleeps with you, guess what?  You have unseen and unwanted company!  The flea eggs, maggots and poop are very small and you may not see them with the naked eye. 

Once the flea maggots have developed into several maturing stages, they will encyst themselves into a little cocoon called pupae.  There, it will lay dormant for a while until it hatches and out comes the young adult flea, ready to look for a host and start the cycle all over again!!! 

As you can see, ONE straddler flea picked up at the park can turn into a major problem within a short period of time:  If each flea can lay 25-50 eggs per day and each of those in turn, after reaching maturity can lay another 25 to 50 eggs per day…  you can end up with hundreds and hundreds of fleas in your house. 


In my opinion, the best way to overcome the flea problem is to attack from 2 angles at once:  The reproductive system and the adult fleas. 

The most important thing is to do year round prevention with a product that will prevent the fleas from having viable eggs.  This is where it hurts for fleas.  If they didn’t breed as much as they do, there would not be such an infestation of your house/environment in such short order.  By preventing the fleas from breeding, you have most of the battle won and chances are that you will need to use the adulticide (see below) very infrequently if ever.  The product that I recommend for cats is an injection done every 6 months called “Program”.  For dogs, you can use a monthly pill called “Program” (which only prevents fleas from breeding) or a pill called “Sentinel” which prevents heartworm, roundworms, tapeworms hookworms and whipworms as well as preventing viable flea eggs. 

If you have an active flea problem, you will have to use an “adulticide” which is an insecticide that is used once a month topically (the vial on the back of the neck).  This product kills adult fleas but does not kills the eggs (or very little).  This product gets absorbed transdermally which means that by applying it on a spot on the skin,  it goes in the pet’s entire system just as if he had swallowed a pill.  These products are not specific to dog and cat skin:  if you touch the product or where the product was applied or if your kids touch it, it will get absorbed into your body.  This is why I recommend minimal use of these products.  Only use them if and when you see fleas or flea dirt (flea poop) on your pet. 

In some cases of severely allergic dogs or cats, they may require year round application of the topical adulticides. 

To handle the environment, you can use “flea bombs”.  However, the flea bombs will leave one of the flea stages intact:  the pupaes will survive the bombs since they are encysted in a shell.  In addition to this, the bombs are, to a degree, toxic.  Nobody likes to have pesticides/insecticides in their house.  If you do not wish to do a bomb, it will not be necessary IF you VACUUM, VACUUM, VACUUM AND IF YOU CONTROL THE EGGS BY TREATING ALL PETS AGAINST EGGS AS DESCRIBED ABOVE.

In summary:

-Treat all pets

-Program injections every 6 months for all cats in the household.

-Sentinel or Program pill monthly for dogs year round.

-Adulticide (Advantage, Frontline, Revolution, etc…) topically if and when you see fleas.

-Bomb or (preferably) VACUUM the environment


Several years ago, my cat had fleas. And he HAD FLEAS. I would flea-comb him twice a day, and each time, I would get (LITERALLY -- I counted them) 100 fleas off him. Each time I combed him. Both he and I were suffering from flea bites in the hundreds.

I tried ALL the non-toxic remedies. Not only did they NOT work, but several of them made him quite ill.

I then tried Frontline Plus for cats on him, ONCE, and then ONCE again one month later. It did not make him sick. And it completely killed the fleas. That was about 5 years ago. Haven’t had a flea since.


[Note: there were several recommendations for the substance, Diatomaceous earth--ground up shells that dry out the flea's body and kill him.]

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